Sourdough
Ancient Bread
Recently a man by the name of Seamus Blackley baked a loaf of sourdough using 4,500-year-old yeast scraped from the sides of ancient Egyptian pottery. As astonishing as this is, it’s almost as astonishing as the fact he then ate the bread. Let’s just say he’s braver than me!
Leavened bread – or bread raised with yeast – has a long and venerable history. It’s alleged to have begun with the Egyptians then spread to the Greeks and Romans. The Romans, in turn, are credited with bringing wheat, oats and rye to Britain. (Barley, however, is native to both Britain and Ireland.)
Across Europe in the Middle Ages, white bread was a status symbol – if you were poor, you were more likely to need to mix grains. Large baking ovens were either communal or owned by a local lord. How then, did people bake a daily loaf at home in more rural environments?
Clay Ovens
While pottage (a kind of porridge made with whatever grain was on hand) was common and easily made in a cauldron, a pot with a lid could also act as an oven. Indeed, we tend to call these Dutch Ovens today. They could be made of cast iron or pottery – the latter the easiest to come by.
I have a replica model made by Romertopf. This translates from German as ‘Rome Pot’ and, yes, the design does go back to ancient Rome. Using this along with an electric oven, I make my own sourdough according to the No-Knead method espoused by New York baker Jim Lahey.
Sourdough No-knead Bread
A sourdough can be started with wild yeasts in the air or bought yeast that is then regularly fed. I studied how to make sourdough under the expertise of Yoke Mardewi of Wild Sourdough. Following her recommendation, I use a rye starter because it is less hungry than a wheat one (i.e. it needs less feeding) and is generally more forgiving. I keep mine in a Kilner jar in the fridge.
The recipe I use, however, for my everyday sourdough loaf comes from Sam Sifton from the New York Times… with a few variations.
Dough Mix
After First Rise
Sourdough No-knead Bread Recipe
Step 1.
In a large mixing bowl combine flour, salt, water and starter until just combined. Cover with either plastic wrap or a damp teatowel. (My bowl has a lid.) Let it rise overnight.
Step 2.
Soak your Romertopf in water or have a cold cast iron pot handy.
You’ll need up to a cup more flour, maybe more. On a clean surface, spread at a good portion of flour. Tip your sticky, gooey dough onto the surface. Knead and keep adding flour until it’s smooth and a lot less sticky. (Yes SOME kneading required, but it’s not much compared to normal bread.)
Step 3.
Grease and flour your pot. Form a ball with your dough and put it in seam-side down. Cover and let rise for a minimum of two hours. (I let mine rise with my terracotta pot in a basin of warm water.) Score the top of your loaf.
Step 4.
Put your loaf into a COLD oven if you’re using a Romertopf. Then crank your oven to the top, baby. We’re talking 220 C fan-forced or 450 F. (If you’re using cast iron, then follow Sam’s baking advice here.)
Step 5.
Bake for 35 minutes then take off the lid and bake for a further 10-20 minutes. Basically until you have a lovely brown crust. Turn out onto a rack and let it cool for at least 30 minutes before eating.
The Final Loaf
